Wednesday, June 8, 2016

In the Cañón del Río Lobos


When I was planning this camino, I saw that the route went close to but not through the canyon. Looking at a map, it seemed that that omission was easily fixed --get a cab to the start of the canyon and then soon after the end of the canyon I could easily cut back to the camino. 

Everything was all set. I had gotten rates from the taxi and had promised to call the afternoon before to set up a time. Here's where things went south. The taxista's wife answered and said her father in law was very ill and there would be no taxi service for a while. 

While I was sitting in the hotel cafe pondering my dilemma, someone said to me --are you Laurie? Turns out that this woman, Arzucena, is a friend of a friend of the woman I walked with last year. Lee had told them when and where I'd be there. Another camino angel. First she insisted on taking me around town. We saw a local performance of the Castilian jota (traditional dance) with all the dancers decked out in their traditional dress. 


Then to the church, where the priest had me ring the bells, showed me the relics, and took me through the wardrobe with its beautiful vestments, some as old as 16th century. 

But the most amazing moment happened when we were in a cafe in the center and Ceni (her nickname) learned that the taxista's father had died and without missing a beat she said --I'll pick you up at 7. Not sure why, but though I don't expect things like this to happen, I have had so many experiences like this on the camino that they no longer astonish me. 



So by 7:30 this morning I was on the trail through the canyon. Amazing. 





27 kms later I'm in Hontoria Del Pinar in my 24€  room getting ready to eat my main meal downstairs. Tomorrow my pal Rebekah joins me and my days of solo walking will be done!! 




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