Being a tourist in Soria

I'm sure most of you have never heard of this town but it strikes me as eminently livable and pleasant. They once had 35 Romanesque churches (which would beat out Zamora) but most have been destroyed (unlike Zamora). But what's left is really nice. I particularly liked the cloister in the "concatedral". 

Just beautiful but the real gems come on Sunday!

Soria is also known as the place where Antonio Machado was a professor for many years. He is one of my favorite Spanish poets. 

 

Anyone who has walked a camino probably knows his "caminante no hay camino, se hace el camino al andar."  So true. 

Sunday update. Sitting in a square with hundreds of Sorianos. I know Spanish cities are lively but this is amazing. One woman explained to me that it's because they suffer so much in winter that the nice weather brings everyone out to celebrate-- sounds like Chicago. 

This morning was just amazing. First to the church and cloister of San Juan Del Duero. I was so glad I got there right at 10 when it opened because that gave me a half hour before the steady stream of tour buses. 

Then up to the cave of San Saturio, a 6 C noble who gave up his riches and went to live in the cave. 

I lit candles for the many happy and sad things in my life these days. 

And then I went to the extremely interesting town museum, with artifacts from Paleolithic forward. Lots of space dedicated to the pre-Romans (Celt ibéricos) and the town of Numantia nearby whose residents held out till the end against those Roman invaders. I was touched to see the collection of belt buckles, just like the ones I had seen in the Civil War museum in Gandesa -- probably all found on battlefields long after the rest had decomposed. 

Lunch and a walk in a couple of parks to follow. Then tomorrow at 6, backpack back on and off I go to Abejar, another long day of 38.